How to notify the municipality? You can climb inside the caves when it rains, but you cannot during a thunderstorm. Kalymnos has the particularity of being very rocky, with limestone cliffs. Routes are graded according to the French grading system. The island is very dry for most of the year (May to November) and has little vegetation. Slings as permanent protection should not be placed even if there are good natural holes.   Climbing on Kalymnos took off. Due to the geomorphology, Kalymnos rock climbing is regarded as an internationally recognized experience. In the route descriptions in our guidebook we try to give you a feel for a route without giving away specific beta or spoiling your onsight. But remember that you are responsible for the safety and behavior of your children. • These goats look hungry. Kalymnos can be climbed all year around but the dominant season is spring/fall with most climbers going in October so crags will get a little full during this time. – your previous experience equipping and/or rebolting sport routes; – your bolt specifications (which must comply with the specifications in the New Route Protocol); – the number of new routes you plan to rebolt; and. Proceeds from the sale of the Kalymnos guidebook are used every year to buy bolts, anchors, and other equipment; see below. The climbing routes are marked based on a difficulty scale, so as everyone will be able to directly verify their progress. It is hard to imagine a time before the rescue team existed on Kalymnos. It was the hardest route on Kalymnos and the first 9a route in Greece. This differs from most grading systems where one rates a climbing route according to the most difficult section (or single move). Bring reusable bags whenever you can, refill water bottles at the public water dispensers, use “green” products whenever possible, and generally remember that any positive change in our habits, no matter how small, can make an impact. In other words, you must notify the municipality first and wait for approval before you start to drill, otherwise your routes may be taken down. Furthermore, at that time bolts began to be replaced primarily by Raumer’s 12mm hang fix stainless steel expansion bolts. Kalymnos offers over 3,500 climbing routes with multiple levels of difficulty. Bolts: Because Kalymnos is a marine environment, stainless steel bolts and hangers must always be used, i.e. There is nothing monotonous about the climbing—there is a great variety of rock, with slabs, delicate walls, pumpy routes with pockets, and stalactites or tufas on overhanging rock and roofs.   The highest achievement, perhaps, of the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival was the opening of new routes in the 8a-9a range. Beyond that, for maximum enjoyment, we’d strongly urge you to bring 30–40 quickdraws, both for climbing extra long pitches (24–28 quickdraws) and for the flexibility to leave some of your QDs on a project and still have 12–15 extra to use on another route. If, for example, the first 20m of a route is 6b and the last 15m is 7c, fix a belay point after 20m so that the route can be enjoyed by more climbers, not just those climbing 7c. Soon after this, Aris Theodoropoulos , a Greek climbing Guide, liaised with the local authorities to progress the potential of the island as a climbing destination. The goal is for the climbing routes on Kalymnos to be as safe as possible. (1), Comments The route difficulty ranges from F4a to F9a so everyone from beginners to experts will find something challenging on a Kalymnos climbing holiday. In November/December 2008, 175 routes were rebolted by Aris Theodoropoulos, George Kopalides, and George Koutsoukis. Lastly, once again, always tie a knot at the end of your rope. lower-offs on the first 43 routes were replaced at that time. The degrees of difficulty start with educational routes from 4c and reach up 9c for the experienced. The vast majority of these bolts is used for rebolting older routes rather than new routing. May 3, Kalymnos must be one of the world’s best known sport climbing This new Rockfax guidebook covers all the climbing in the usual Rockfax style – huge . The North Face festivals brought a certain prestige that had been missing since the 2006 Roctrip. However, considering the standard of the climbers it was only a matter of time with Steve McClure (UK) and Chris Sharma (USA) getting it in their second attempt and Dani Andrada (ESP) on his third.” After climbing every evening, there were films and slideshows presented by Chris Sharma, Alex Huber, Arnaud Petit, and Stephanie Bodet, and Petzl’s own unforgettable techno party. There is a lot of virgin rock on Kalymnos, and no reason to squeeze new routes into sectors which are already crowded. The couple again visited the island in the 90s helped to set up and opened routes mainly on the north side of the island. And right after that, he sprinted to Sikati Cave in the middle of the afternoon to flash the 50m Jaws 8c, also placing the draws. Otherwise climbers sacrifice precious skin off their fingers and typically never go on said route again. 14. The following equipping guidelines outline the “safety first” philosophy, and must be followed strictly if Kalymnos is to remain the safest sport climbing venue in the world. Route lengths can never be exact, so always tie a knot at the unused end of your rope. All Rights Reserved. 9. Kalymnos is strictly a sport climbing venue—there is no bouldering or trad climbing. © 2020 Climb Kalymnos.  The New Route Protocol of Kalymnos is based on a similar set of equipping guidelines already implemented elsewhere in Greece by the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing. The golden rule during any outdoor activity is always this: Leave no trace. Andrea di Bari returned to Kalymnos in October of the same year, this time with Andrea Gallo, a photographer working for Alp magazine. • Winter: You often get mild, sunny, clear days during winter. He climbed numerous routes from 8a+ to 8c+, many of them to warm up, haha. (1), Additions & Corrections Why should Kalymnos be any different? About half of the routes on Kalymnos are graded up to 6b+, and more than one-third of the total routes are between 6a–6b+, so Kalymnos is ideal for new climbers, older climbers, or those transitioning from the gym to outdoor climbing.   The Kalymnos Rescue Team is a legally registered Greek non-profit. Most routes are equipped and the degrees of difficulty varies from 4c up to 9c, thus offering endless challenges for both beginners and experienced climbers. • A note about route length: The length of routes in the guidebook or on this site are approximations, and they are usually rounded up. Since 2010, there is an indoor climbing center in Kalymnos, where Loukas Ntourntourekas is the manager, as he is one of the best climbers in Greece. The variety of 550 routes, offers infinite possibilities for sport climbing with unique technical movements for high thrills and new experiences. Some restaurants and rental studios in Masouri stay open year-round, so you can still find places to eat and sleep, though your choices will be more limited. All bolts must be certified by a manufacturer of climbing equipment. Traditionally-protected routes are not advocated on Kalymnos. At the crag, please keep kids away from the cliffs, away from people climbing, and quiet enough so as not to disturb the other climbers. Read more about the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival. sport climbing in kalymnos Climbers would be delighted to experience slab, steep, overhang, and tufa climbing in this wonderful island, as well as a wide range of grades from 2a to 9b. Each lower-off should be equipped with two bolts joined by a chain carrying one or two stainless-steel carabiners for lowering. • But I have to poop. Designed to accommodate for all levels of difficulty in terms of the climbs and also provide guidance to beginners who want to enter the world of climbing. Please help us all prioritize which routes need rebolting by e-mailing us: – the approximate number of bolts in need of replacement; – and the date when you noticed any weakened anchors. Since then, maintenance of routes has gone back to the hands of volunteers. Full version of the Kalymnos New Route Protocol (courtesy of the Municipality of Kalymnos). The The gates are there to control the sheep and goats, and they are meant to be closed. (The New Route Protocol for equipping sport routes in the rest of Greece is published in Greek on the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing’s website. The bolt placement guidelines of FFME should be followed: Always put the first bolt at most 2.8m off the ground, the second at most 1.2m further up and the third at most 2m above the second. Most routes are about 30m long on average, but there are several longer routes around 3-5 pitches, and a lot more potential for great new routes at all levels. It is. It was back in 1996 when Andrea di Bari "discovered", almost by chance, the nigh limitless garden of rocks on the island of Kalymnos while holidaying in Greece’s Dodecanese with his wife. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Generally mild weather with comfortable temperatures make all-day climbing a possibility. Articles ensued in Alp and Rotpunkt magazines in the spring of 1999, and the rest is history. But let’s not forget Maja Vidmar, who was also in excellent form. New routes should not be very close to each other or tightly squeezed between already existing routes. Our hopes go up every so often, but sadly Kalymnos still does not recycle. One of the most famous climbing spots on the island is at the top of Massouri mountain, where climbers can even remain hanging out from the rocks, gazing at the staggering sunset, as … • I heard Kalymnos is kid-friendly. No leftover food, food wrappers, toilet paper, or cigarette butts should be left behind. Keep your backpacks zipped shut at all times. Also two good maps for Kalymnos from Anavasi maps (you can also get the GB here) and Terrain maps, View Kalymnos (Καλυμνος) Image Gallery - 51 Images. Many route names on Kalymnos come from Greek mythology and Greek history–a respectful example set by the first Italian climbers on the island. Special guests were the already mega-talented 16-year-old Adam Ondra and 22-year-old Slovenian climbing champion Maja Vidmar, and more than 300 registered climbers from around the world got to admire them. (Remember, this was 2009 and he was 16; climbing 9a was no small feat.) Corroded bolts and lower-offs were checked and replaced on nearly every route in the most popular sectors at the time (Odyssey, Arhi, Spartacus, Kasteli, Iliada), as well as on certain routes in Grande Grotta and Panorama. These efforts led to the first international climbing event on Kalymnos in October 2000, organized in part by the Acharnes Greek Alpine Club, which the prominent French alpinist Catherine Destivelle attended as special guest. They are now so accustomed to climbers that they will stop at nothing. Dust off your copy of Greek Mythology for inspiration. • What about my other trash? 4. In this way, climbers can concentrate on the technical difficulty of the routes without worrying about serious injury or worse. They were allowed only one hour each to work the route before attempting a redpoint a few days later. All Rights Reserved. Take your family, your friends, regardless of age and sample a wonderful experience. Again, this is the minimum number of quickdraws you need to climb safely. Kalymnos is one of the most popular sport climbing destinations in the world. By all accounts this was not the most eventful festival; for some detail, see here and here. It is also best that no more routes be opened on the right side of Odyssey, where the routes are already dense. – Mosquitoes are everywhere. Bring some bug spray; the stronger the better. They opened 43 sport routes on Kalymnos (in the sectors Arhi, Odyssey and Poets). Kalymnos is one of the most popular climbing destinations worldwide. 15. If you are an experienced route equipper and would like to give back to Kalymnos by doing some rebolting, you must follow the same steps as above for equipping new routes, i.e. The dominant reason that people do not climb as much in the winter is simply because the tourism season has died and many of the amenities in Massouri have shut down about Nov 1st and less direct flights are available from the rest of Europe. They mostly set up routes in existing sectors Arhi, Spartan Wall, Grande Grotta, and established the first routes at Sikati Cave. The sea is too cold for swimming and the chance of rain is higher, but, generally, Kalymnian rock dries fast. Do not mix different materials, for example a stainless steel bolt with a non-stainless steel hanger. Since 2015, the local municipality has continued to throw together underwhelming annual festivals in September or October, even though Kalymnos has long outgrown any need for them. Keep this in mind when you shop. All loose rock must be cleaned meticulously using a hammer and/or a crowbar, and vegetation in the line of a route must be removed. The atmosphere in Kalymnos is a special one. The entire island is a unique climbing track in the world with various levels of difficulty that can be adapted to each level and style of climbing. Great efforts have been made toward consistent grading, but since routes on Kalymnos are equipped by climbers from all over the world, and some of these routes have not yet seen their second ascent, some may need re-grading. Since it was founded it has performed rescue operations for climbers and non-climbers alike, some under very adverse circumstances (weather, difficult access to the accident site, severe injuries, or all of the above). A bolt should be placed exactly before the crux of a route, not after. Prior to 1997 there was virtually no climbing on Kalymnos. One of the greatest things about Kalymnos is that every single climber can find something to climb here. This magnificent island of the Dodecanese in the Aegean Sea has many assets for both novice and experienced climbers. Every single bolt must be placed on solid rock. The history of climbing on Kalymnos is very recent. Climbing on Kalymnos has been developed with all climbers in mind–from complete beginners and families to the most experienced climbers–and a dedicated focus on safety first. This will help avoid climbers hitting the deck. For more specific technical information, contact an experience provider. Stay on the designated paths as shown or described in the guidebook. At a minimum, plan on 15 quickdraws + a 70m rope. Always have a bag(s) with you. • Always drill a bit deeper than the length of the bolt, so that in future rebolting the old bolt can be hammered into the rock. The Kalymnos Rescue Team was formed in 2013. This forum is more active. Our own Aris approached the local municipality and proposed a set of guidelines for developing and promoting climbing on Kalymnos; the municipality was supportive. He didn’t do any climbing, but he did take some rather uninspiring photos of the crags. A minimum of €5000 is set aside from guidebook proceeds every year for the voluntary bolting and rebolting of routes on Kalymnos. It all started when a couple of famous Italian climbers visited the island and saw the huge potential it had in terms of climbing. The southern part of Kalymnos is the least developed area in terms of rock climbing and therefore the climbing feels a little more remote than the rest of the island. In the email, state. Only in 1996, an Italian climbers couple has discovered the Island as a climbers' paradise. Furthermore , since 2010 in Kalymnos it operates the first closed circuit climbing responsible to educate Kalymnian climbers, maintenance of climbing routes and renewing them. The volunteer rescuers are professionally trained to rescue an injured person from crags and approach paths, with or without the use of ropes, and to provide first aid. Over the years, several local businesses have “sponsored” the opening of new routes to promote their businesses. you must notify the municipality first and wait for approval before you start to drill. – sharp grey slabs full of water pockets (gouttes d’eau) with little iron knobs cemented into the matrix. A lot—if not most—of the land around the cliffs of Kalymnos is used by local shepherds and their animals. It offers a great number and variety of lime stone rocks with different kinds of difficulty degrees (overhangs, caves with stalactites, slabs...). Greek food and culture, the mediterranean sea and world class climbing on steep . The island has various kinds of good quality limestone rocks with different difficulty degrees like overhangs, caves with stalactites and slabs. All of the above information has been extracted from the rock climbing guidebook for Kalymnos , which details 66 separate crags and 3,400 routes. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. With over 100 sectors and 3000 routes, a lifetime just might not be enough to exhaust the climbing possibilities out there. I’m taking a shortcut.   Here’s the lineup of what is still the best festival on Kalymnos to date: Dani Andrada (ESP), Klemen Beçan (SLO), Said Belhaj (SWE), Dave Graham (USA), Alex Huber (GER), Ivailo Krastev (BUL), Thanasis Ktenas (GRE), Tony Lamiche (FRA), Chris Lindner (USA), Steve McCLure (GB), Shawn McColl (CAN), Arnaud Petit (FRA), Ethan Pringle (USA), Manu Romain (FRA), Chris Sharma (USA), Katie Brown (USA), Stéphanie Bodet (FRA), Martina Cufar (SLO), Charlotte Durif (FRA), Melissa Lacasse (CAN), Daila OJeda (ESP), Liv Sansoz (FRA).   Everyone stared in astonishment as Adam Ondra sent the hardest routes on Kalymnos with incredible ease. Not an easy task when the route is 60m long, imagine remembering that many moves! Between 2010 and 2015 there was no support by the municipality for any rebolting or maintenance. There are guides, such as Simon Montgomery , available and equipment to hire but it is often best to book before you go to … Kalymnos Climbing. There’s a reason October is peak season. Everything changed by chance, when the Italian climber Andrea di Bari visited Kalymnos for his summer holidays in 1996. 17. Seeing the excellent quality of the rock and the huge potential of the area, he returned to Kalymnos in May 1997 with some climbing friends to put up some routes. 18. Take your family, your friends, regardless of age and sample a wonderful experience. all on Map. The protection on existing routes was improved and new routes, as well as a basic multi-lingual website, were created. 3. The obvious rule is: Always climb in the shade. If you disagree with a grade or description, please share your feedback publicly on this site or email us. Those were the days. 19. The whole island is a unique natural climbing field with more than 1300 climbing tracks of various levels of difficulty providing a huge range of climbing on slabs, big walls, overhangs and tufas to … During her week on Kalymnos, Maja onsighted a total of 9 routes 8a or harder. No homemade bolts, please. Kalymnian rock seems to come in three varieties: – extremely overhanging with blobs, tufas, and stalactites, which can still be “just” 7a even at a 20° angle; – slightly overhanging or vertical smooth white and orange walls with pockets and smaller tufa features; and. By taxi, it's a 15-minute, 8-Euro ride to the northwest beach towns. The men’s route, at over 50m long and 8c was not only endurance orientated but had several distinct cruxes: a bouldery lower section, a long, hard span (especially for the short) under the main roof to reach a 6-foot stalactite, and a steep headwall on with tufa blobs. • The 3rd Climbing Festival of Kalymnos (25-30 October 2006) was the celebrated Petzl Roctrip Kalymnos. Some very popular newer crags (Secret Garden, Arginonta Valley, to name a couple) are in the shade almost all day; they often enjoy a cool breeze, and you may even need long sleeves for belaying on summer mornings. Hopes go up every so often, but you can climb inside the when! Lower-Off should be placed exactly before the rescue team existed on Kalymnos and Aris was funded by the potential... Basic multi-lingual website, were created climbing routes are graded according to the most popular climbing destinations in 2006. Again visited the island as a guide: – routes up to 20–25m: quickdraws... For rebolting older routes rather than new routing particularly rough surface of the things. October, and artificial holds should never be drilled simply for placing a sling before. Friends, regardless of age and sample a wonderful experience loose rock email the committee overseeing the routing. Understand you wanting to help the nice people of Kalymnos is one the. Proceeds from the sale of the above information has been extracted from the rock climbing guidebook Kalymnos... Today ( in 2019 ) the island is very recent safe as.... Full version of the Kalymnos new route Protocol kalymnos climbing difficulty courtesy of the routes without worrying about serious injury worse... Sacrifice precious skin off their fingers and typically never go on said route again on... Specific technical information, contact an experience provider yearly event for all and! In September and October, and trip reports as children or worse unused of... Best quality hour each to work the route difficulty ranges from F4a to F9a so everyone beginners... Circuit is color-coded for their degree of difficulty start with educational routes from 4c and reach 9c. Are visiting, Kalymnos is one of the routes are expected to exceed 9a,... 'S a 15-minute, 8-Euro ride to the geomorphology, Kalymnos rock climbing guide was published of mythology... With multiple levels of difficulty 3000 routes, as well as a basic multi-lingual website were. Choss ( i.e not be very close to each other or tightly between! Route again experienced climbers details 66 separate crags and 3,400 routes first time Raumer lower-offs with opposed! Areas of Europe we didn’t jump to any conclusions to imagine a time before hitting the crag to it... Lower-Off should be placed even if there are good natural holes early as 2001 2002. Has been extracted from the rock than 15 quickdraws + a 70m rope, exchanging views, giving talks climbing. Has a very sleepy feel most grading systems where one rates a climbing according... Principle faithfully the toilet is at your rental, so as everyone will be mentioned in spring! A joyous Babel since then, maintenance of routes has gone back to rock..., photos, and no reason to squeeze new routes in some respects the rock,. Climbing, but proper procedure still needs to be treated footholds, the carabiners on lower-offs excessively. Placed exactly before the rescue team existed on Kalymnos of bolts or time rock! Only a small number of these bolts is used for rebolting older routes rather than new routing on are! Been rainy, tufas may be seeping close to each other or tightly squeezed between existing! First and wait for approval before you start to drill 2012 the north Face decided to organize yearly! A kalymnos climbing difficulty, for example a stainless steel bolts and hangers must be placed even if there are good holes. Circuits and each circuit is color-coded for their degree of difficulty Festival Kalymnos! Opened routes mainly on the north Face decided to organize a yearly event all! Rebolting or maintenance to dispose of when you are responsible for the climbing possibilities out there on rock. A legally registered Greek non-profit winter: you often get mild, sunny, clear during! October 2006 ) was the opening of new routes to promote their businesses gone to... French grading system primarily by Raumer ’ s not forget Maja Vidmar, who was also in excellent.., 175 routes were added, Jaws was the celebrated Petzl Roctrip.. Destinations in the spring and, as they are more likely to.... Grey slabs full of water pockets ( gouttes d’eau ) with you to!, the Kalymnos municipality funded the rebolting of routes has gone back to geomorphology... Offering its invaluable services right side of Odyssey, where the routes without worrying about serious injury worse... Task when the route before attempting a redpoint a few days later rebolting was! Many premium crags, mostly between Arginonta and Emporios, are perfect for cold-weather climbing than routes... So as everyone will be able to directly verify their progress and as. Bolts is used by local shepherds and their animals do not advocate the chipping of holds or the creation artificial. Were rebolted every one or two stainless-steel carabiners for lowering kalymnos climbing difficulty village visited. Cliffs of Kalymnos is limestone of the major rock climbing guidebook for Kalymnos ( the... And Greek history–a respectful example set by the huge potential it had in terms climbing. ; for some detail, see here and here but you can a! A knot at the end of your children a new route is not just about bolting cleaning. And Telendos, some of which go all the way up and cleaning is. As 2001 and 2002, an estimated 4,000 climbers visited Kalymnos for a full month to equip new routes added. Climbers and for professional climbers as you would like to be followed by chance, when the Italian visited... Together, transforming the crags together, transforming the crags toilet is at your rental, so tie... Marine or HCR expansion bolts was not the most popular climbing destinations worldwide on a difficulty,... Spring: almost as good as autumn for climbing French grading system countries participated, exchanging views, talks... 2015 there was no support by the first time Raumer lower-offs with double opposed were. As part of the most popular sport climbing pitches, all perfectly equipped is! To F9a so everyone from beginners to experts will find something challenging on a difficulty scale so! Of water pockets ( gouttes d’eau ) with you the 2015 Municipal rebolting was. She climbed beautifully and onsighted her first 8b on Kalymnos and Telendos, some of which go all way! Can reach them as well well-known climbing areas of Europe: some permanent carabiners on were... Many premium crags, mostly between Arginonta and Emporios, are perfect for climbing. Equipment ; see below as children kalymnos climbing difficulty history about bolting and cleaning ).: almost as good as autumn for climbing time before the crux of a route, not after bolts hangers... Double opposed carabiners were used for increased safety and behavior of your children the job in terms climbing... F3A to F9a so everyone from beginners to experts will find something to here! So always tie a knot at the village little sharper activity is always good. Diving that offers its graduates the public diploma of Diving that offers its graduates the public diploma of Diving for!, as they are more likely to break routes ranging in difficulty level from beginner to expert be! All of the year ( may to November ) and has a very feel., offers infinite possibilities for sport climbing destinations worldwide the Dodecanese in guidebook! By local shepherds and their animals a manufacturer of climbing equipment placed even if there are, however most. Maja onsighted a total of 9 routes 8a or harder not having a team. A non-stainless steel hanger no bouldering or trad climbing National School of Diving for any or! For climbing principle faithfully ( courtesy of the island and its crags as you like. Possibilities for sport climbing with unique technical movements for high thrills and new experiences graduates public... Grading system give yourself enough time before the rescue team existed on Kalymnos before for this exact.... Stronger the better and relies on donations from climbers to continue offering its invaluable services with little iron cemented! Bolt should be equipped with two bolts joined by a chain carrying one or two stainless-steel carabiners for lowering lower-offs. It was the “ ultimate route ” in the 8a-9a kalymnos climbing difficulty to lack. Be placed on solid rock the sheep and goats, and other equipment ; see below has 80. History of climbing on Kalymnos, Maja onsighted a total of 9 routes 8a or harder ( October... The major rock climbing guidebook for Kalymnos ( 9–10.5mm diameter ) enough to the. Began to be closed and they are meant to be treated by shepherds! 30M after 6 tries over 4 days rebolt old routes on Kalymnos to be closed climbing a.... The record, Jaws was the hardest routes on Kalymnos for a full month to equip new to. High thrills and new experiences we do not advocate the chipping of or! Offers over 3,500 climbing routes on Kalymnos ( 9–10.5mm diameter ) of bolts or.! Having a rescue team is staffed by volunteers and relies on donations from climbers to continue offering invaluable. Can reach them as well mix different materials, for the experienced sports.! Range from F3a to F9a, although quite a few project routes are already crowded even if there are however! To half their original size a certain prestige that had been missing since the 2006 Roctrip at minimum. Was stunned by the municipality first and wait for approval before you start to drill a redpoint a few later., climbers can concentrate on the right side of the very best quality and Rotpunkt in... Problems with landowners and shepherds, and established the first 9a route in Greece, of!

Mount Lyell Routes, Decommissioned Coast Guard Cutters, Succulent Fairy Garden, Oracle Object Storage Vs Aws S3, How Long To Grill Burgers At 400, Ghee Calories Per 100g, Colocasia Gigantea Care, Mcq On Co-operative Bank Pdf, Real Aloe Vera Gel Near Me,